|
1/32 F5B from a Revell P38J |
|
|
From a P-38 J Lightning to a F-5B Late 70's and early 80's have been the 1 /32 kit's golden age. There were a lot of different models with movables parts which make them really attractive when I was a child. At this time, I was only able to buy 1/72 and dreamed of these big models. In Europe now, these models are now, pretty much reached (and some of are collectors), but needs a huge work to increase their accuracy. I will not make a review on the Revell's kit, Rogerio "Rato" Marczak, has made a good one, on LSP. However, as many past Revell's 1/32, if the general shape is rather good and need re-engraving , details are often poor. To me, the canopy is an essential part of a kit, its transparency and shape get noticed at the first look. That was the first part I decided to create, after checking some 1/32 drawings and details & Scale books. I made it a 5 parts canopy (like the real one), the cockpit is inaccurate and most of his equipment is false or not represented. The Details & Scales about P-38 has many interiors photos that will help for the detailing. The goal of this conversion is to keep the less parts from the model. The F5-B was a P-38J with a camera nose, so most of the parts I create for this conversion would be used for P-38. During this part's process, I make parts for the J model (which I planned to build one also), and adapt them for the F5-B.
|
|
|
MOTORS & BOOMS I've started the building by the plane motors and booms intakes, which shape are rough and interior ducts not represented. I use my favourite polyester putty, which I filled into behind the model's part when dry, I used a drill to carve intake's ducts. I glued some fine netting at the end of it, to represent the radiator. I also gave the side's bugle of the intake cowling, with a sanding of the part.
|
|
|
I cut the obtained part, which gave me the master to duplicate it. I used the same technique for the Boom's radiators and reshape the intake plastic parts. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
I cut the vent door and make a new one and duplicates it. The panel's structures needs a re-engraving (as the whole model), and the radio hatches engraving is wrong, so I filled them are traced the joint with a needle. I deckled to make two new rudders and two superchargers (the good point, is these two elements on the real plane, is that the have the same shape on the both sides, so it spares me redundancy). I had to remove some plastic on the tail's interior, so I can make the new rudder fits in. I choose to represent the rudders a little turning to have a dynamic stand for the P-38. It is very important to refine the back of the controls surface's edge, so they looks like as slim as the real one.
Beware of the part N°47, the engraving is wrong and radiator is moulded 3-4 mm ahead. This part is very strange and seems to have moulding problems, I have noticed this on all edition of this model. On the other hand, the fitting between upper fuselage and the wing is not good, I had to use polyester putty to fill those gaps.
|
|
|
FUSELAGE & COCKPIT INTERIOR After sanding the fuselage's surfaces, I engraved the panel's structure and this area is the most complicated to carve. The canopy, which height and shape is wrong, I scratchbuilted a new one with Polyester putty which I sculpted and frames in Evergreen plastic, so I can use this parts as master for thermoforming a clear canopy.
I also made a thin resin version, so I can glue the clear parts on the resin frames, I used this combination with the Me-109 K4. It's a little hard to take, but gives a interesting look to the model. Cockpit's sides, floor and rudder-bar will be made with evergreen and sprue.
The instruments panel is generic (so I can use it for J,L and recon versions, with optional switch boxes..). I've remove the instruments-panel's cover, some photos of operationals Lightning showed this configuration and this gives to the cockpit a less "cluttered" look.
The dorsal armour-plate and the arch behind are made with sprue, I have to make navigation lights with clear plastic. I've planned to make boxes and radio equipment by the end of model's detailing. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
LANDING-GEAR & BAYS The parts which represent it are poor for the scale, "Details & scales" books, are very helpful to upgrade the details inside. The landing-gear is not deep enough and you must add many cables and tubing. The landing-gear is a little thin comparing from the photos, I've increased leg's thickness with aluminium foil and putty and make separates components. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
With all the resin parts installed, the model is quite heavy and the landing-gear must be strong enough to resist. The bay's area is quite full of details and are very difficult to represent with resin, I tried to create them with thin Evergreen (I had 2 or 3 big sheets), but the "bay" curl when insert in the boom, so I decided to make it with cramming Polyester putty into and carve the bays. This solution was at last delusive, furthermore I had to dismantle the boom parts from wing (and ruined the sanding of this parts). Finally I choose to use 3mm thickness Evergreen, and fixed the strength problems I had. The main bays are finished and recovered with adhesive aluminium (for riveting representation), the hatches operating mechanism are made with Evergreen, toothpicks and aluminium foil. I cast each to check the details reproduction, modify some of it, then after some corrections, I had the definitive masters for the bays parts.
|
|
|
I haven't represented most of the tubing & wires (in fact all those which are not flattened to the surfaces). The wires will be installed on resin parts later. I've spent 12 days working on this parts and I must say that I didn't enjoy it, but it was last heavy "update" for this model. I used 2mm thick lead-wiring for the silver duct running into the bay;) The wheels are made with evergreen and Putty which I carved, I've added the interior's details and the valve.
|
|
| From this part, I made a mold and cast 5 wheels, then engraving them to represent the different structure of the tires used on P-38 (which depends of missions & operations theater). I also "flattened" them and make a separated hub-cap (painting convenience). | |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| I use the same technique for the forward wheel, cut the gea and turn it to the left. The brakes tubing is made with lead wire and aluminium clamps | |
|
WINGS & RECON NOSE The wing's fitting is below the average and align them with the boom is pretty hard, furthermore, the flaps must be refined (I've planned to make some separated parts, for the P38L version I have on my building schedule).
I make the wing fairings with milliput and aluminium foil, it was a heavy work, but essential for the model accuracy. It"s a pity that I have not succeed to make it removable so I can create moulds for this parts production.
Wing's reservoir-caps are from resin parts.
The motor's area needs a detailed re-engraving to represent the riveting, it was a long work and I had to make it twice. Because of that, I decided to modify the motors parts I've created previously, and added the all panels which have rivets. Some panels were replaced with aluminium foil and engraved with a needle. The two air scoops forward the super-charger are crude and 2 resin parts will replace them for a better result. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
I carve the landing-light pit, recovered the surface with adhesive aluminium and added a clear sprue .
The 3 colors light under the fuselage are created, with the same technique.
|
|
| The Recon nose is modified with polyester putty and photo hatches are composed with resin & clear thermaform.(Photo29)I don't like very much P-38 with hatches "all open" (it gives him a strange look) so for this one, I keep the camera-bay closed (just added 2 of the 7 cameras). | |
![]() |
![]() |
| I paint the interior with matt black and made the camera's lenses with clear sprue . I have a F5-E on my building schedule, so the forward bay is "In the works". The forward antenna is a lead part glued with Araldite. The decoration I choose for this conversion is the F5-B with Cdr St-Exupery was lost in combat on July ,the 31 1944. Some French historians indicates this plane overall silver and some others overall PRU Blue, some says its PRU Blue was so weary, that photos gives the impression that the plane has silver scheme. According to one of the last GR 11/ 33 living mechanic, the third hypothesis is right, I choose this one because I've planned a overall PRU Blue for the F5-E and the overall Silver for a F5-C of St-Ex's friend Capt. Gavoille. I usually representing the surface's riveting with a needle, but I've planned to paint the model with Acrylic PRU Blue on Enamel silver coats. There many steps before PRU Blue wearing (using sellotape, sandpaper and different needles) and I venture to ruin the riveting work. I sprayed 3 or 4 coats of Humbrol Gloss Silver 11 and after a week drying it gives this. | |
![]() |
![]() |
|
COCKPIT PAINTING According from some photos of Details & scale, I mix some different colours Matt yellow 66, green 116 & 117 to have a equivalent of 151interior green (which has disappeared from the Humbrol's range of colors). I spray this color (with 30 % black mix to prepare preshading (I'm not sure of the term). The next coats were lightened to have the interior color desired and after a good drying, a Black / Brown "wash" is applied on angles and a final drybrushing will bring out the detailing). |
|
|
![]() |
| Instruments & electric cases are satin Black (matt 33 & Gloss 21 50/50 parts of each) cables & tubing are either Satin black, either Dark brown or dark aluminium off` . To reduce the brightness of silver color, I apply a coat of Tamiya clear smoke. The harness is painted with Matt 155, lightened depending of the wearing degree you want. TO BE CONTINUED.... | |
| © Pascal Huguet | |
|
|
|