|
Interview with
Paul Budzik Today we have the privilege to publish our recent interview with master modeler Paul Budzik. In many modeling groups, he is always remembered as one of the greatest master modelers in the world. As very talented modeler, Mr. Budzik has always shown his craftsmanship in faultless, superbly finished models along the last 20 years or so. You probably have already seen his articles published in Fine Scale Modeler magazine and books like Modeling World War II. He has kindly cooperated with LSP answering almost thirty questions, where he shares many of his ´secrets´. Take your time and give it a good read. We hope you like it, afterall, it is not everyday that we have the chance to talk to a master modeler.
Large Scale Planes: First off thanks for taking your time to talk with us, Paul. Could you tell us a little bit about yourself please? Paul Budzik: I’m a practicing dentist in my mid 50’s, very happily married, and living in central California. I have been afflicted with a fondness for miniatures for as long as I can remember. After finishing dental school, I was introduced into a circle of very skilled model makers and things really got out of hand. Now I live day to day, only a shadow of my former self.
PB: If you don’t count the time I broke the nose wheel off a Revell DC-7 and skillfully repaired it with a glob of modeling clay, I would say I was about 5 or 6. I can remember working on Revell’s “Flying Dragon” B-25 kit with my Dad. He built a number of the early kits, and although I was interested, it seems like the first one that I was invited to participate in was the B-25.
PB: As far as subjects, I’ve been interested in most everything. Over the years it has shifted between aircraft, ships (mostly sailing ships), railroading, and cars. I’ve built some armor, but for the most part they have been kits. Although, back in the mid eighties, I did some scale drawings for an M-12 which I had partially completed and that’s about as far as that got. I probably choose my subjects based on aesthetics and sentimentality. I’ll probably never build a model of a Brewster Buffalo ( apologies in advance to both of the fans of this aircraft ).
PB: I would not consider myself a professional, although at certain times I have contemplated that option. Certainly over the years, I have sold a model or two and received money for particular custom work but I don’t make my living by making models.
LSP: About how many models have you built during your career? Are you still building models? PB: In all honesty, I wouldn’t have a clue how many models I have built over the years. I still do some building, but at this point it is strictly for my own pleasure. But you never know, that could change tomorrow. LSP: Would you mind sharing one or two of your favorite modeling tips with us?
Also, don’t be afraid to experiment, but don’t do it on your actual project. Whatever it is, if you’re doing it for the first time, try it on a spare or scrap. If I’m working from a kit, I usually have two or three because it rarely comes out right the first time. So plan for that and practice, be patient and don’t get frustrated.
LSP: Do you like to weather your models or you prefer them ´brand new´? If you like weathering, what’s your approach? PB: I usually apply light to moderate weathering on my aircraft. I prefer to keep it very subtle. I don’t care much for the current fad of pre-shading; many times it seems overdone. In contrast, my railroad models can be heavily weathered while my automobiles are pristine. On aircraft, I apply my basic finishes first only making considerations for faded paint by lightening the base colors. After the markings are applied, I will weather with a combination of airbrushing and dry brushing.
PB: I usually paint with lacquer primers and Floquil. I use automobile finishes on my auto models. For white, I generally use a white lacquer because it won’t yellow. Someday when I run out of my stash of lacquer, I’ll switch over to acrylics. LSP: NMF (natural metal finish)... which method/paint? PB: I usually use Alclad over a polished gray lacquer primer. Sometimes I’ve used Floquil silver with a bit of Testor’s silver enamel added to slow the dry time and smooth out the surface, but it isn’t hard enough to scribe into (ed. note: see his scribing method below. You won´t believe!).
PB: For flat surfaces, I use Testor’s Dullcote. Sometimes I will add a bit of extra flatting base to the mixture, but not too much or you can get a haze. Flatting base can be purchased from an auto paint store. It is added to auto paints to produce a flat finish. It works well because of the solvents in Dullcote. For high gloss finishes, I use polyurethane.
PB: I use an air compressor with filters and a dryer. I have a number of airbrushes partly because I’m crazed. (My first airbrush was a Paasche F) Most of the time I will use a Paasche H for my primers, but if it is a big project, I might use my Binks detail gun (used for shooting jams on automobiles). For general parts and sub-assemblies I will use a double action Badger, because the parts are cheap and I am using them frequently during construction. I may not totally disassemble the airbrush to clean them each time I use them. Sometimes I will just run some thinner through them and then squirt it off with one of my Paasche H’s loaded with thinner. (This is not to say that I value the Badgers less or that they are cheaply made.) For final finishes I always use a double action brush appropriate for the size of the model. The objective is to be able to lay enough material on the surface so that you can overlap your passes without it flashing too quickly. For this I will use an Iwata, Thayer and Chandler model C, or Paasche V, all of which are fitted with large tips. I will adjust pressure so that I use the minimum amount of air for good atomization and move the material without extreme overspray. This is generally anywhere between 18 and 25 lbs of pressure. Again, I never apply any paint to the model until I have thoroughly tested and adjusted the airbrush and mixture on a scrap piece. I never spray in my shop; usually I spray outside. My compressor is contained in a roll around bench that I can move outside. I always wear a respirator type mask and latex gloves. I try to make things as convenient as possible so all my hoses are fitted with quick change fittings and I have adapted many of my airbrushes to use 35mm film canisters. I use a brush for painting small details and touch-up.
PB: I usually apply my decals right on the final painted surface that I have rubbed out with 1200 grit wet and dry. I will trim the film as close to the graphic as possible. The decal is wet in warm water and slid onto the surface of the model with Microset (blue). When in position, I will lightly blot off the excess Microset and follow with several applications of Microsol (red). Finally I will really melt the decal down with an application of Solvaset. After the decals have set, I wash off the surfaces and clear coat. If I’m painting on markings, I will use Floquil or lacquer that I rub out as thin as possible.
PB: If there is something available of suitable quality, I will use it. I don’t like re-inventing the wheel.
PB: In general, I’ve usually found Tamiya’s stuff to be the most well thought out and best fitting of the injection kits, but I have encountered some very nice examples from other manufacturers. However, I do not like the current trend of recessed panel lines. In my opinion, they are way out of scale. Because I add all my own surface detail, I would prefer nothing. Just give me the correct contours and dimensions. And while you’re at it, mold them with the doors shut (a la Monogram Mosquito) since most of my kits wind up on the ceiling. After all, they don’t call the AIRplanes for nothing.
PB: For filler, I use a mixture of Zap-A-Gap and dental resin powder. Somewhat like mixing Zap-A-Gap with microballoons. 3M’s Acryl Blue is nice, but it softens under lacquer primer.
PB: Yes.
PB: I really can’t say why certain subjects are more motivating. However, they always start with research. During the research phase, I am also brainstorming how certain parts will need to be fabricated. Some projects might get scrapped at this phase because I just haven’t thought of a good construction method (like the corrugations on a Martin M-130). If I have to draw plans, then I sort a lot of it out then. If I am kit bashing, then I will check the dimensions of the kit and see what I have to change. In the case of aircraft, I usually assemble all the basic structures with jigs so that proper alignment is maintained. After everything is together, I will tweak my final contours, fillets, cowlings, spinners, etc. The model is primed and sanded until everything looks right. The raised details and panels are applied. Any glazing is masked off and the final colors are shot. Overspray between colors is removed with a white 3M scuff pad. After all the color coats have been applied, the model is set aside to dry for enough days until the thinner smell has gone away. The surfaces are wet sanded with 1200 grit paper. It is at this stage that I scribe in my panel lines. Decals follow with the final clear coat and weathering. LSP: You mean you scribe the panel lines AFTER painting??? PB: Yes, I scribe my panel lines into my final paint. You use a very light touch and scribe just through the paint into the gray primer underneath. You only get one shot at it so you can’t make any mistakes. But what you get are these incredibly sharp and fine panel lines. The most time consuming project that I did this way was the Boeing 314. But there is no other way to get a halfway acceptable panel line in 1/72. Now if it is frequently removed panel or door, I might have scribed it into the model after priming but before painting. I would scribe deeper creating more width.
PB: Yes and I don’t want to know how many.
PB: Not seriously. If I put something away, it can stay put away for a very long time. There are usually too many bits to remember and it is hard to keep track of more than one project at a time. Also, working on more than one thing at a time feels too much like production work.
PB: I never keep track
PB: I’ve got a scratch 1/32 Hawker Tempest V that I keep threatening to finish, but that main gear makes me crazy, (thank you Sidney Camm).
PB: I used to, but I pretty much dropped out of contests.
PB: No.
PB: I think the most beautiful aircraft ever produced was the Lockheed Constellation and I’ve only built one when I was about 12. It’s a future project as a companion to my Boeing 314.
PB: Cycling, hot rods, computers, music.
PB: I think scale modeling hit its zenith years ago. I’m sure there will always be some interest, but I’m afraid it will only become more limited here in the USA. If the interest is maintained in Asia, we will probably continue to see new subjects.
PB: Yes, I want to take the time to publicly thank all those folks who have helped and inspired me through the years. Most of what I know, I’ve learned from others. Some things I figured out for myself and I hope I have been able to share some of it through my magazine articles. However, some people have been more influential: My mother when I was about 4 and driving her crazy on a rainy day, “Can’t you just do something constructive?” Some years later my Dad, “Instead of building a lot of bad models, why don’t you slow down and make a few good models”. And the three fellows in the picture below who I had the privilege of calling friends. The photo was an impromptu shot that I took back around 1979 when photographing the MG-34 for a future modeling project. From left to right they are: Harry Parker, Oscar Neubert, and John Anderson. Harry and John were the owners of a Cal-Scale. They manufactured some of the finest lost wax brass castings ever produced for model railroading. Many of which are still in production today. Oscar was simply one of the best modeler/machinist that I have ever met and it was my good fortune that he somehow took a shine to me. Whenever I feel a lack of motivation during a modeling project, I can still hear Oscar say, “aw, come on doc”.
© Large Scale Planes and Paul Budzik 2004 |
